Frequently Asked Questions
The answer/s given are general and we disclaim any responsibilities for any thing that would go wrong with plants

1.. Why do I have problems reblooming my phalaenopsis ?
A. Phalaenopsis in general requires a 15F to 20F differential to initiate a spike. As long that temperature differential is maintained for at least 2~3 weeks, the plant should be able to initiate a spike. although some varieties may be recalcitrant in producing the spike. Also, it is very important that the plant is exposed to the required light dosage daily.

2. I live in the lowland in the tropics where temperature is almost constant day and night. How do I achieve that 15 to 20F differential to initiate spike formation ?
A. One way to provide that 15F to 20F temperature differential is to surround the plant or pot with ice at night for the next 2 to 3 weeks. Just be aware not to let the melted water touch the potting mix. Another way is to put the plant in a cooler. Some commercial vendors would refrigerate the plants out of season to initiate spike formation.

3. Why does the unopen Phallaenopsis buds drop or abort instead of opening into flowers and even the flowers drop prematurely ?
A. If you bought your phalaenopsis , paphiopedilum or any plants that require high humidity in an orchid or flower show and when you get home the buds drop the next day or two, several reasons contribute to bud blast - term for aborted bud opening- sudden change in humidity or temperature or both that plant was not accustomed to-either in transit or at home. This happens in the winter and early spring. The further north you live, the worse it gets. Your heater keeps on running to maintain a set temperature and as a consequence the humidity also drops. In short, you have a desert like condition. This is OK for Cactus but not for flower requiring high humidity. Whatever moisture retained by the flower and the buds are being dispersed to the atmosphere faster than what the plant could supply and as a consequence, the flower wilts and the buds drop prematurely. The only way to counteract this effect is increase the humidity. Spritzing or spraying the flowers may help it while the flowers or buds are still wet, but once it dries out then you are back to a desert like situation. Watering the plant more often does not help either. In fact, you are contributing to a phenomenom called root rot. In a low humidity situation, the potting mix dries out much faster. But the drying out is not even and gets worse for a taller pot. You made a visual assesment and felt the potting mix, its dry. In reality, the top 1/2 layer is dry but the lower 1/2 is still moist. So, you water the plants thoroughly. Whats happening here is the top 1/2 is now moist but the lower 1/2 is wet. 2 to 3 days later, the pot dries out again due to heat and dry condition and the watering cycle continues until the lower roots just don't have enough air and eventually the top root dries out and bottom roots rot. With a rotted or no roots. The plant can't drink and eventually the plant shrivels before its time. This happens to plants that require high humidity and roots that don't like to be wet for prolonged period like Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, Taccas to name a few. There are several ways to increase the humidity around the flowers- local humidifier, trays w/ gravels filled with water- the bigger the tray the better, putting the plant in a terrarium etc.

4. I learned that the wider the leaves of a plant, less light is required and vice versa, can I expose the Paraphalaenopsis to full sun ?
A. Generally the wider the leaves, less sun is required and conversely, the narrower the leaves, more sun is required. However, for Paraphalaenopsis, with its terete type leaves, it is completely the opposite-less sun is required. They thrive in shaded , warm and exposed to wet and dry but humid environment.

5. I have three spikes of beautiful white flowers...when the flowers begin to wilt and fall off...what do I do with the spike? Will it regrow flowers?
A. Two thoughts about spikes. One is to cut it off completely at the base after the last flower wilt and fall off and give the plant the rest it require so that next year it would be able to produce more spikes and flowers. The other thought is cut it off where the first flower came out and hope that side spikes would come out from the lower nodes of the spike and further stretch the flowering season at the expense of producing smaller flower count.

6. Several leaves look and feel limp and wrinkled..the others are firm and thicker...what is happening to cause the difference in the leaves?
A. Best way is to look at the root system in order to be able to find out what's causing it. If the root system is OK, most likely the plant just went through a dry spell and the plant in order to survive had to shed off the lower leaves. Watering the plant may rehydrate the limp leaves otherwise its permanent. You might as well peel if off. If the root system is not OK, you'll see the same effect and worse is the other leaves that are firm and thick would eventually turn limp and wrinkled unless you put the plant in a higher humidity environnment and hope new roots would sprout.

To be updated from time to time . If you have any questions or suggestions please feel free to E-mail me - Tito Wee

Top

Return to Dragon Agro Products Homepage