Site Furnishings - Green Roof Component

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Site Furnishings - Green Roof Components

Site Furnishings Sleek contemporary lines. Rustic simplicity. Old world elegance. We offer a full spectrum of high-quality lightweight products, from pots & planters to ash & trash, for any building style.

NAME

DESCRIPTION

SIZES

TYPE

NOTES

Tournesol VGM Modular Greenwall System A complete extensive or intensive greenwall system designed to last the lifetime of a structure. Removable modules with soil profile up to 8" 20"w x 22"h modules, rails to hold 1-4 modules. Greenwall modules with SS rail-based mounting system Soil and irrigation specs are also available as required.

TerraScreen Interior Greenwall System A full wall panel system designed to hold 6"plants in nursery pots. Easy to install, even easier to maintain 4'x4' and 4'x6' wall panels. Full system extends 18" from wall Interior greenwall panels of galvanized, powder-coated wire. Ask about irrigation alternatives

Green Roof Component Trays for modular green roof installations. For either intensive or extensive applications 24"x24", 24" x 48" in 4" and 8" depths Self-supporting trays Specifically designed for our container irrigation systems

Trellis Simple galvanized metal trellises designed to mount on any of Tournesol's rectangular containers. 48"L x 24"-72"H Trellis products for rectangular containers Also available in custom sizes and heights.

Tournesol VGM Modular Greenwall System

Tournesol VGM is a robust, commercial-quality greenwall system, consisting of recycled plastic planting modules and powder-coated hanging rails. Tournesol VGM greenwalls provide complete, instant coverage for any vertical surface, and allow a wide, controllable variety of plant designs for any horticultural condition. Designed to last the life of the building, VGM is backed by Tournesol's 30 years of experience creating complete landscape solutions for the urban environment and unequaled after-sales support

Each VGM module has a generous 4.5" or 8.5" soil profile, which translates directly to healthier, stronger root growth and long-lived plants. Modules are shipped to the project broken down (saving freight), then assembled, filled, and planted in a local nursery. Grow-in typically takes 1-3 months prior to hanging.

The rail mounting system requires minimal penetrations to any wall, and can be installed independent of the modules. They work on any type of structurally sound walls, including building facades, screen walls, and walkways. Modules are hung quickly and easily, and may be removed as necessary for design changes or maintenance..

The Tournesol VGM rails come in end-mount rails (-S), with a single set of mounting holes, or double mounting rails (-D), for intermediary locations. They are available for 1, 2, or 4 modules (-1, -2, -4). All rails are powder-coated black stainless steel to last the life of the building. To achieve more than 4 module greenwalls (or combinations), multiple rails can be installed in a row. Rails may be mounted independent of the boxes being hung, to facilitate building completion and timing.

Tournesol VGM modules, manufactured of 100% recycled polypropylene plastic, are delivered flat to minimize freight. They need to be assembled (see illustrations below), the soil retention bag set in place, filled, then the top snapped in place. A highly inorganic lightweight soil mix (>95% inorganics, 30-50 lbs per cu. ft) should be used in the module. The modules need to be planted and grown-in on their backs in a nursery-type setting. The soil retention bag should be slit, and plugs, liners, or other size plants started in the soil. Minimum grow in time is one month. The plants must be well-rooted prior to hanging the module.

Once the module is ready to be hung, it needs to be transported to the job site, and the framset attached. All parts of the frameset are black powder-coated stainless steel. Long through-bolts run from the front frame, and screw into nuts on the back frame. Studs on the back frame set lock into the rails, ensuring the modules stay in place.

Once the units are hung, Tournesol recommends irrigating them with drip irrigation. Contact your Tournesol Siteworks salesperson to discuss irrigation and fertilization strategies.Modules can be removed or attached independent of one another, should maintenance be necessary. New modules (the least expensive part of the system) can be introduced to existing framesets, allowing replacements to be held in reserve.

TerraScreen Interior Greenwall System

The most efficient, effective, and maintenance friendly live wall system designed specifically for the interior.

Often described as living art, TerraScreen™ allows the designer, landscape contractor, or owner to use “plants as paint” to establish a living, breathing focal point, set a mood, or celebrate a season

TerraScreen™ was originally developed by Planterra, a leading interior landscape design and maintenance company, specifically to meet the needs of the hospitality industry. It is the solution to the challenge of installing a living wall that is instantly lush and easy to refresh and maintain.

We recognize that styles change and spaces evolve. TerraScreen™ offer more flexibility than any other green wall system; designed so that the planting may be easily updated so the installation is apppriate to the style, season, and environment.

TerraScreen™ is manufactured and sold to the trade by Tournesol Siteworks, as part of its broader line of unique green building products, irrigation solutions and site furnishings.

All modules are made of black powder-coated galvanized steel wire, with integral brackets to fasten the panel to the wall. Panels may be mounted adjacent to one another to create larger coverage areas.

Plants are placed in their 6" grow pot directly into the black no-hole cachepot. The hanger system keeps the plants in place. Replacement is simple - just remove the plant from its cachepot, put another in its place.

A pressurized tank-based irrigation system is also available for the TerraScreen system. Ask your Tournesol Siteworks salesperson for details.

• Panel system stands 4-5/8” from wall, but requires minimum of 18” from wall for plants
• All TerraScreen™ systems should include a catch basin mounted below
• TerraScreen™ systems work best if wall behind panels is waterproofed and painted black.
• Approx. panel load - 170lbs. for 48”h, 250lbs. for 72”h TerraScreen™

Tournesol Modular Green Roof Products

The developments in putting green roofs on buildings is helping to give legs to the whole green building movement. While the concept is at heart an environmental one, there is far more practical to the technology than casual observers realize.

Long a player on roof gardens and green buildings, Tournesol Siteworks is now creating component solutions for the modular green roof marketplace. As the country realizes the benefits that a green roof provides , more developers are committing to covering at least a portion of their roof with plants. With the market still in its infancy, there are many different answers to the “right way” to set up a green roof. The most common solutions in use now are built-in-place and modular. Tournesol is working from our years of experience manufacturing liners for plants and planters, and creating components for the modular green roof segment. The market is currently roughly split between the two concepts. A modular green roof is made up of a series of trays, which hold engineered soil and plants. This allows the use of a green roof directly on existing roofing membrane, without retrofit and the associated risks and costs. It still provides the important elements associated with green roofs, including stormwater retention, insulation, and membrane protection. Tournesol Siteworks green roof trays are made of recycled HDPE material, and come in a variety of sizes for both extensive (4”) or intensive (8”) soil depths. Custom depths and sizes are available as required.

A quick summary of advantages of modular green roof systems vs. built-in-place:

Easy roof repair & maintenance – just shift the trays to the side and fix whatever is wrong with the roof. No digging, no tearing out existing healthy plants, and less “down time” due to roof membrane problems.
Quick & easy installation – most of the installation work can be done on the ground. It’s safer, faster, and costs less than working on the roof. Arranging trays is all that’s required on the roof.
Easy green roof maintenance – if there is a problem with a section of the plantings, it can quickly be “switched out” with another tray, rather than worked on in the field.
May be retrofitted to existing roof (depending upon structural capability), no special roof membrane required.
Pre-engineered components mean less custom design is required.
Lightweight – like built-in-place systems, the modular tray system retains a specific amount of stormwater prior to allowing the rest to drain. Unlike the built-in-place systems, there aren’t heavy layers of additional water-retention fabrics, drainage layers, etc. required.
May be pre-planted and pre-grown – a mature roof planted without waiting.

Characteristics of the Tournesol modular trays:

Available in a range of sizes for both extensive and intensive applications.
Manufactured in recycled high density polyethylene (HDPE), with 60% post-industrial recycled material.
Drainage channels in the trays allow for normal water flow across the roof.
Raised drain holes (on channels) allow for storm water retention and water reintroduction to water cycle.
Trays manufactured in black material with UV stabilizers.
A full range of edge treatments and connection options are available.
Typical saturated weight of 4” (extensive) system – 15 lbs. per square foot.
Sold through local distributors, keeping the overall cost to the contractor low.

Why install a green roof?

Benefits to the Natural Environment:

Reduction of the urban heat-island effect. Most cities consist, to a large extent, of paved areas and building rooftops. These absorb the heat during the day and retain it, which is then radiated back into the atmosphere. This has been shown to increase temperatures around major cities by 3-8ºF. Green roofs are (ideally) covered with plants, which shade the building rooftop, and prevent it from absorbing the heat or reflecting it back into the atmosphere.
Stormwater Retention. Rainwater falling on a normal rooftop is immediately shunted into the drainage system, with little or no opportunity to be brought back into the water cycle. Plants in green roof systems can utilize any rainwater absorbed into the planting medium, and transpire that directly back into the atmosphere. See also benefits to the built environment.
Biodiversity. By propagating green spaces, we are giving critical species of insects and birds locations to live. This was one of the primary drivers of the German marketplace. This is the most “green” of the arguments. An effort is underway in the San Francisco Bay area to create a series of green roofs in a chain throughout the area, to allow for birds and insects to be able to repopulate areas that they had been unable to reach due to massive development.

Benefits to the Built Enviroment:

Energy efficiency. A green roof on a building absorbs much of the UV radiation, preventing it from striking the roof and heating the building. The green roof also provides a layer of insulation, isolating the inside temperature from the outdoor temp. Most any commercial building will keep a consistent temperature no matter the external factors, so there are two major benefits here – the heating and cooling units won’t need to work as hard, which will save energy, and because the requirements on the system aren’t as great, a smaller heating/cooling unit can be installed, saving on building construction costs.
Stormwater Retention. All water that currently falls on a regular roof quickly runs into the drainage system. This is typically passed through to the municipal sewer/storm drain system. In many municipalities, development has reached a point that major storm surges will overwhelm sewers and water treatment facilities. This may only be a problem of short duration, but the only solution is to either expand the sewer system (digging up and expanding them!), or changing the flow profile of the run-off. Green roofs accomplish this with a water retention layer designed into the system. In the case of Tournesol’s modular tray system, the drainage holes are raised ½” off the roofing membrane. The water accumulates in the water storage cells, where it can be used later by the plants. Exact studies demonstrating the quantifiable benefits of these systems are being carried out, and are expected to drive code requirements in the long run.
Protection of roofing surfaces. It has been shown that a protected roofing membrane (from UV, heat, temperature fluctuations, etc.) can last two to four times longer than unprotected membrane. The savings in re-roofing the building can help offset the cost of the green roof.

Types of Green Roof Systems

Built-in-place vs. Modular

Most flat roofed buildings in this country are covered with either single-ply membrane or fluid applied rubberized asphalt waterproofing. Green roofs are typically done on single-ply membrane roofs, the more expensive and reliable roofing solution. Built-in-place greenroofs are what they sound like - made up of single-ply roofing membrane, which is then layered with a plastic drainage material, another non-woven layer and water retention material, then 2+ inches of an engineered soil medium poured on top. While the built-in-place green roof has a high level of flexibility and aesthetic value, it also is expensive to install and dependent upon the long-term success of the roof membrane. Modular systems are essentially a series of trays, each of which holds a thin non-woven drainage fabric, engineered soil, and plants. These systems offer significant installation and maintenance advantages. They tend to be considered more functional and less aesthetic (although once the plants grow in, it can be difficult to tell modular from build-in-place apart).

Extensive vs. Intensive

Greenroof projects that require no active, ongoing maintenance are called Extensive. These are typically 4” deep (although they can be planted in as little as 2” of engineered soil), with simple or no irrigation, drought-tolerant plants (often sedum) which require little or no care. This is the least expensive to install here. The “maintenance-free” aspect of the roof is attractive, although they do need seasonal maintenance.. The plants on these types of installations will not withstand being walked on. Our 4” modular trays are made for extensive applications.

Everything else is referred to as Intensive. Intensive can be from 6” up to several feet of soil, is often irrigated, and has a richer variety of plants. They are also much more expensive than extensive roofs, and are typically custom designed by a specialist. Most of the really high profile projects are done as intensive, although the majority of greenroofs put in are extensive. Our 8” modular trays and modular trays with AutoFill are made for intensive applications.

Specifications

Model	Description	List Price	Your Price*
GRT-242404	Extensive Green Roof Tray, 24”l x 24”w x 4”d,	$30	$25
GRT-482404	Extensive Green Roof Tray, 48”l x 24”w x 4”d	$50	$44
GRT-242408	Intensive Green Roof Tray, 24”l x 24”w x 8”d	$59	$49
GRT-482408	Intensive Green Roof Tray, 48”l x 24”w x 8”d	$99	$82

* When paying by Money Order or Check (subject to 5 to 10 business days clearance) or wire transfer (Add $25). Please add Ground Shipping & handling to cost of products. Credit Card Add 3% to total. Inquire for discount schedule on volume purchases. Since we're a high volume distributor, we're passing the savings to you. Please allow a minimum of 2 weeks lead time to process your order as these planters are made to order. Returns will not be honored unless the product is deemed defective by the manufacturer.

Minimum purchase is $100. NJ residents Please add required sales tax.

Click Installation Manual.

Trellis

Our simple galvanized wire trellis mounts to any of Tournesol Sitework's rectangular planters. We've designed them to be easy to install, last the life of a project, and economical. The trellis provides effective backdrops, helps to configure space, and divides areas, all at a price that customers can afford

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION PRIOR TO PLANTING
For Natural Spring Series, Coronado Box, Sea Crest Series, CWS, CWI, CWF.

Transport: Inspect the planter upon delivery from carrier and note any damage at that time. When transporting empty planters on site carry the planter between two or more people, on 2 or 4 wheel dollies, or move on a pallet. Do not roll the planter on its base rim unless the stopcock drain assembly has been removed from the bottom of the planter.

Soil Mix: Start with evenly moist, good quality professional potting soil. We recommend that it be a "soilless" media composed of approximately :

Approx. 1/3 Peat Moss
Approx. 1/3 composted pine, redwood orApprox. 1/3 fir barkpeat moss
Approx. 1/3 sterilized coarse sand, or combination of perlite and/or vermiculite.

Do not use field soil in these planters. A slow-release fertilizer may be added to the soil mix before planting if desired; however, add at only one quarter of the recommended amount. Before planting, make sure that the soil surrounding the plant's root ball is evenly moist. It is important that the plants are not excessively dry or excessively wet when planting.

Situate the Planter: Move the planter to its final location, remembering to rotate it so that the fill hole and drain stopcock will be accessible both during planting and when the plants have grown. Protect all surfaces near the planter which may be damaged by soil mix, plant container, tools etc. Draping the planter rim and outside walls with a tarp will reduce the clean up effort. Tape the sensor to the outside wall of the planter during planting to avoid hitting any part of the sensor with tools.

Tree Tie-Downs: The SS-5536 and SS-3830 planters come equipped with anchor points for tree tie-down cables. If tie-downs are to be used, then unscrew the protective bolts and replace with the eye bolts that are included with the tie-down package. Remember to attach the tie-downs during the planting process to avoid having to search for the eyebolts later. The three anchor points are located below finished soil level to be as unobtrusive as possible.

Getting the Plant and the Soil in Place

Visually inspect the planter. Check that all the inlet discs are held firmly in place by their retainer rings, that the stopcock drain assembly is securely in place, and inspect the entire planter for any other obvious damage. Leave stopper in place to prevent potting soil from entering reservoir.
Place a 3" white plastic root confuser disc over each water inlet, and the large drainage pad in place over the brass drain fitting, fabric side down.
Unfold the large sheet of soil separator fabric to cover the base of the planter, then use a few shovels of moist potting soil to hold it spread across the bottom. Add more mix to press the edges of the soil separator fabric up the sidewalls of the planter.
To install the siphon tube assembly, clear a space near the sidewall (not over a water inlet) and place the 3x3" drain pad either side up. Stand the fabric-wrapped end of the siphon tube on the pad and hold in a vertical position while packing potting soil around it. Once supported by a few inches of potting soil the siphon tube should be able to stand unsupported.
Measure the height of the plant rootball. Continue filling the planter with potting soil, (packing firmly by hand and making sure that the siphon tube is standing straight) until the soil level is such that when placed on the soil, the top of the plant's root ball will be about level with the fill hole. Place the plant rootball in the planter and position to your satisfaction.
Continue filling the planter with soil mix, making sure to firmly pack the soil mix around the rootball as you go. If tree tie downs are to be installed, attach them to the eye bolts at this stage. Fill with potting soil to the finished soil level.

Sensor Placement

Activate the sensor by dipping it in water for a full 15 seconds
Use a trowel or similar tool to make a trench from the midpoint between the plant stem/trunk and the planter sidewall to the point where the sensor is attached. The trench should angle down from the planter sidewall.
Lay the sensor tube on the bottom of the trench so that the sensor tip is positioned 1/3 to 1/2 way down the height of the planter.

36" high planter - 8"-12" below surface of soil
30" high planter - 6"-9" below surface of soil
22" high planter - 5"-8" below surface of soil
17" high planter - 4"-7" below surface of soil
12" high planter - 3"-5" below surface of soil
Make sure that there are no kinks in the sensor tube, then cover and fill in around the sensor with potting soil. Firm the soil mix well, especially around the sensor tip, to ensure close contact between the sensor and soil.

Adding Water

Fill the reservoir with water only after checking that the planter and the plant are positioned correctly. Be careful to remove any stray soil mix from around the filler area to prevent soil from getting into the reservoir. Remove the filler stopper, insert a hose and half fill the reservoir with water. Replace the stopper, inserting it firmly and with a twist to ensure that a tight seal is made.

Leave the planter alone to allow the CWS to set up its own watering cycle. Do not frequently pull the stopper to check the reservoir. This interrupts the natural watering cycle and can cause overwatering.

After the initial two or three days, return to check the planter is watering correctly. When the system is functioning, the soil surface should be dry or drying out down to the sensor depth. If the topsoil is still moist, don't pull the stopper. If the soil is dry, a vacuum should be produced in the reservoir- pull the stopper while listening carefully for the sound of air being pulled into the reservoir (it makes a "whooshing" or a "popping" sound).

If the soil surface is wet, no air movement is felt or heard when removing the stopper then consult the section "Trouble Shooting Instructions". If the soil surface is drying out and the air movement can be heard or felt, then the planter has been planted up correctly and is now establishing its own watering cycle. At this point the reservoir may be filled all the way to the top, and the stopper firmly replaced as before.

Underplanting Shallow-Rooted Plants with Larger Plants/Trees

Completely install the larger plant, activate and place the sensor, and fill the reservoir as outlined in the instructions above. Make a note of the depth of the sensor. Excavate spaces for underplantings in container 1" deeper than the underplanting rootballs.

Topwater underplantings regularly to provide the shallower plants with a water source until they have the chance to grow down to the level of the moisture sensor, typically 3-4 weeks. Carefully top water the plants with no more than two cups of water per plant initially, until the plants have had a chance to grow down to the moisture level.

Operation

Water Filling Schedule

Check the reservoir no more than absolutely necessary to determine how much water the plant is using. After 6-8 weeks the plant will have acclimated, and you can estimate typical water usage and be able to work out a filling schedule to minimize maintenance visits. Remember, as seasons change, the filling schedule will also change. Similar or different plants in different locations will demand water at differing rates. Always allow for at least a week's supply of water in the reservoir in case of unusually hot or windy weather. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry between fillings.

Adjust your site visits according to the needs of your thirstiest plants. Top off the reservoirs of all planters at once to be sure that some don't go dry. Take advantage of the Controlled Watering System to streamline your maintenance visits.

Fertilizing

Once the plantings have become established in the planter, or anytime after that, fertilizer may be used. Planter Technology recommends using HM-10 time-release fertilizer for sub-irrigation systems. Add 3 tablespoons of fertilizer every 3-4 months. When using other fertilizer,add water soluble fertilizer directly with the water when filling the reservoir. Use fertilizers at 1/4 recommended strength. Adding fertilizer to the reservoir at full strength may cause severe root and leaf burn. Apply fertilizer in this way three or four times a year at times most beneficial to plant growth.

NOTE: Never use organic type fertilizers. These are not water soluble and also encourage the rapid growth of algae which could reduce the efficient delivery of water into the planter.

Stopcock Drain Assembly

When in normal use, the drain stopcock valve may be left in the closed position. In normal conditions, the planter requires no drainage. If left open, the stopcock will not block any water that may condense in the tube from time to time depending on the weather conditions, which may lead to weepage and staining the surface the planter is on. After exposure to heavy rain or if the planter has been top watered by mistake, the stopcock should be opened to allow excess water to drain away. Proper drainage after rains is critical to the health of the plant. The stopcock is threaded to accommodate a standard hose fitting. By attaching a hose and then opening the stopcock, it is possible to carry the drain water away without wetting the ground around the planter. (When draining the planter in this way make sure that the opposite end of the hose is at a lower level than the drain stopcock.)

The siphon tube is provided as an emergency drain to remove accumulated water from inside the planter. Simply open the top of the tube, and siphon the standing water out.This may need to be repeated several times to get all the water out of the planter.

Using the Tamper Resistant Stopper (TSP-6888, Optional)

Tamper resistant stoppers are used to prevent removal in heavy-traffic locations. The metal topped stopper is opened with a standard hex wrench. To close, hold the stopper firmly in the hole, insert the hex key in the screw top, and turn the hex key clockwise several times until resistance is met. To open, insert hex key and turn counterclockwise 3-4 times. Be sure not to overturn key!

Maintenance

Trouble Shooting the Controlled Watering System Irrigation

The soil seems too wet -
An airtight seal must be maintained in the planter for the CWS to properly function. The most common problems that lead to overwatering include:
- A loose or improperly seated stopper. It must be firmly twisted down to ensure an airtight seal!
- Loosely packed soil. Firmly pack the soil, eliminating air pockets. Add extra soil if necessary.
- Poor soil/sensor contact. Check that the sensor is properly placed, and that soil is firmly packed on top of the trench. Check that the sensor tube is still firmly in its fitting.
After checking the above conditions, allow the planter to function for another week. Recheck to insure that the soil surface is dry or is drying out down to the sensor depth.
The soil seems too dry -
The topsoil in a SeaCrest Series planter will appear dry when the Controlled Watering System is functioning properly. The best way to accurately determine the moisture level is with a soil sample probe. Look to the relative health of the plant for an indication of proper watering - some plants will simply not require much water, and will appear not to use up the reservoir. Even though they may not take up much water, they still may be very healthy. Remember, the planter only waters as the plant uses the water. If things still seem dry:
- If the reservoir is empty and the soil appears completely dried out, the soil may have lost its ability to absorb water. Moisten from the top (avoiding the sensor area), kneading and stirring the soil if necessary to get the soil to absorb water.

The water flows into the container through a number of inlets - check for signs that the soil is being evenly moistened in all areas of the planter.

Long-term Preventative Maintenance for the Controlled Watering System

Like any system., the CWS may require maintenance over time. The sensor tubes, stoppers, inlet disks, and soil separator fabric may need to be changed to keep the CWS functioning as designed. The maintenance required depends upon the careful use of the planter.

RECOMMENDATION:

fill the reservoir with clean water, keeping dirt and other debris out. Over time, algae growth due to dirty water or soil in the container can lead to blockage of the inlet disks at the base of the planter.

Don't allow the reservoir to go dry - this may lead to mineral build up in the water inlet discs, preventing full water flow.

Use Biobarrier squares for plants with aggressive root systems - A plant's roots will naturally seek out a water source. Over time particularly aggressive root systems may go through or around a single layer of fabric, clogging the inlet disk from the container side (preventing water flow). Biobarrier fabric is chemically treated to prevent roots from going into the reservoir.

Should you find that the water level in the reservoir is not dropping, the soil is dry at lower levels and the plant looks like it isn't getting the water it needs, then there may not be enough water making it through the inlet disks. Drain much of the water out of the planter, lower a hose towards the bottom of the planter, and flush the inside with high-pressure water. This may serve to disrupt any debris or blockage on the underside of the disk. If that doesn't solve the problem, add a mineral dissolving agent into the water (such as a decalcifier, etc.), to dissolve minerals that may have built up in the disk, clogging the micropores.

If these solutions don't clear the discs, dig out the plant to prune the roots back. At the same time, replace the inlet disks with new ones and use Biobarriers to ensure that build-up doesn't become a problem.

Keeping the SeaCrest Series Planter Looking Great:

The SeaCrest Series planter's durable polyethylene construction allows for easy cleanup. A dirty planter, whether covered with graffiti or grime, can be cleaned with hot soapy water and a stiff brush. For paint or more difficult marks, paint thinner may be used.
The planter's surface can be brought back to a luster using standard furniture polish.